What It’s Like to Visit the Galapagos Right Now
Floating down a beryl blue lagoon that knifed into a post-apocalyptic black volcanic landscape, I started to have the strange sensation of being followed.
It’s not an uncommon feeling for me while snorkeling—I have a crippling, irrational fear of large sharks. (Days earlier I’d made sure there was always somebody snorkeling in front, behind, and to my left and right until I realized a shark could and would just come from below.) But quickly reassuring myself there was no way a shark was in here, I whipped my head around.
A glimpse was all I got, and then a swirl of bubbles and a flash of flippers as two sea lions disappeared.